Pallet to first lift

Four inches of 3,000 PSI concrete, level within 1/2" across the footprint. Ceiling height of 10 feet or more for standard models, measured to the lowest obstruction. Most storage models need no anchors; service models with jacks do. Read the manual for yours.

Lay the runways on blocks in their final position, fit the crossbeams and bolt the posts to them loosely. Route the four equalizer cables through the posts and over the crossbeam sheaves exactly as the diagram shows before anything is tightened. Set the runway spacing to your widest vehicle.

Raise the posts upright with two people, snug the bolts, then check diagonals across the runways and plumb on every post. Shim under the base plates. Torque the crossbeam and post bolts to spec. Fit the approach ramps, wheel stops and drip trays.

Mount the power unit, connect the cylinder hose along the runway channel, fill with AW32 and have the electrician wire the 110V or 220V feed as the model requires. Raise the lift empty and adjust each cable nut until all four locks engage at the same click.

Drive a light vehicle on, raise to the first lock and check level side to side and end to end. Cycle to full height, then run a 5-minute drift test. Fit the caster kit last, if ordered, and practice one move on the empty lift. Re-check cable tension after the first month.

Cut the banding and lift the crate panels off. Check the changer, mount head, bead breaker blade, helper arm if ordered, cone set and manual against the packing list. Photograph the serial plate. Move each machine on a pallet jack to a spot with 3 feet clear on the working side and an air drop and outlet in reach.

Both machines want anchoring; a balancer will not read true on a loose base. Mark through the base holes, drill with a 1/2" bit, set the anchors and shim the balancer level in both directions before torquing. Fit the swing arm, helper arm and any shipped-loose tooling.

The changer needs 110 to 145 PSI of clean, dry air through a filter-regulator-lubricator set to 2 to 3 drops a minute. Fill the lubricator with air-tool oil. Plug the balancer into a dedicated 110V outlet; 220V changer motors go to the electrician. Confirm the turntable spins clockwise with the pedal.

Run the balancer's self-calibration with the supplied weight and a known-good wheel. Set the changer mount head gap to 2 to 3 mm off the rim with the plastic inserts fitted. Break a bead, dismount and remount one scrap tire to learn the pedal timing. Lubricate the bead. Always.

Remove the crate and wrap and check for damage. Fit the seat and steering wheel if shipped loose, flip the ROPS up and pin it. Release the hydro bypass levers, set to freewheel for loading, so the drive wheels engage. Raise the deck to transport height. Gators: fit the cargo box tailgate and mirrors.

Most engines ship with oil; verify on the dipstick, since overfilling is as bad as running dry. Fresh gasoline, 87 octane or better, no more than 10% ethanol. Connect the battery, positive first. Set tire pressures to the label, often 10 to 14 PSI rear and 15 to 20 front. Confirm the blades are tight and the deck belt sits on every pulley.

Seated, parking brake set, levers out, start. Confirm the seat switch kills the engine if you rise with the blades engaged, and that the blades stop within 5 seconds of disengaging. Drive off the pallet with the deck up. Change the engine oil after the first 5 to 8 hours as the manual directs, then follow the normal interval.

Remove banding and wrap. Check the truck, forks, battery, charger, keys and manual against the packing list and photograph the serial plate and the capacity plate. Look over the mast chains, hoses, tires and fork heels for transport damage and report anything within 24 hours.

Electric trucks ship with the battery disconnected and partly charged. Connect it, then give a full first charge before any work: 8 to 10 hours on most units. The charger wants a dedicated circuit at the voltage on its plate; 220V chargers go to the electrician. LP trucks: mount and connect the cylinder, then check for leaks with soapy water.

Check hydraulic oil at the sight glass and top up. Set the fork spacing for your pallets and confirm the fork locks seat. Grease the mast channels and chain, and the tiller pivot on a pallet jack. Manual jacks: pump the handle 10 to 15 times to purge air, then fine-tune the lowering valve nut so the forks hold, lift and lower cleanly.

Key on. Run lift, lower, tilt and side shift through full travel with nothing on the forks. Confirm the horn, lights, seat or tiller safety switch and the emergency disconnect. Drive off the pallet slowly and test the brakes. First load at half rated capacity, then check the mast for even lift and the tires for scrub.

A level concrete or composite pad outdoors, with 24 inches of clear air on the intake sides and 5 feet above the fan discharge. Not under a deck, not against a wall, not indoors. Keep it downstream of the filter and any chlorinator, and within 3 feet of a drain for the condensate.

Water flows filter, then heat pump, then chlorinator, then pool. Use 2-inch PVC and the supplied unions so the unit can be isolated. Fit a bypass valve so flow can be trimmed to the range on the plate, usually 30 to 70 GPM. Check every joint for leaks with the pump running before the wiring goes in.

A dedicated 220V circuit on a breaker sized to the plate, through a weatherproof disconnect within sight of the unit, bonded to the pool bonding grid. This is licensed-electrician work in every jurisdiction we ship to and the warranty requires it. Have the electrician confirm phase and voltage at the terminals before power-up.

Pump running, water flowing, then power on. Set the target temperature and let the compressor start after its 3 to 5 minute delay. Check the flow switch closes, the fan spins freely and the condensate line drips clear water. Expect 1 to 2 degrees per hour on a covered pool. Pair the controller app last.